Thursday 6 Ağostos 2010

written by Patreek (as the Turks call me)

*Here is the view out of my bedroom window*

Since I arrived I noticed a few things immediately about Istanbul:

-The city is covered in minarets. When I looked out the airplane window I saw Istanbul continuing way beyond its center, and everywhere it is punctured by towering minarets. They are very beautiful and testify to the incredible number of mosques in the city.

-There are stray cats and dogs everywhere. The cats are quite literally everywhere; one day we were walking through a park on our way to class and could see two glowing cat-eyes from inside a trashcan. We also hear them fighting at night. There is one dog that lives on our street that we have become quite fond of. The full name we gave him is Rufus Mehmet Tuba Güzel; he/she is a huge fatass and only moves about 20 feet each day. Below is a picture of her:

-Quite a few women wear the burka. It is so strange to see it right next to a woman wearing a miniskirt walking down the street, but it is a daily sight.

Today William (Villyum as the Turks call him) walked to the Galata Tower. To get there we took the Tünel. It is a short subway that goes steeply down the hillside underground. It was built by the French and is the third oldest subway system in the world behind New York City and London. Below is a picture of Villyum and I doing our best to blend in:

Architecture and Planning: One of Istanbul’s immediately identifiable conditions is the juxtaposition of extremely old and extremely new. In some cases the new buildings go even further by incorporating the old into the new structure itself (the picture below shows a building in Istiklal that does this).

The view from the top of the tower is like nothing I have ever seen; the city extends out as far as the horizon in all directions. Across the Golden Horn we could see the enormous mosques of Sultanhamet, and in the other direction the towering skyscrapers of the Levent business district.

At one point on the journey I stopped to take a picture of a painted tile display. As I was getting ready to take the picture a Turkish man ran up to pose for me. It was pretty funny. But now compare this man’s expression to that of Atatürk, the country’s national hero, in this statue we saw minutes later. He is the most respected and revered Turk of all time; his name means “father-Turk.” Clearly there is a certain look to which all Turk’s aspire.

Later that night we ate at a kebap house with Şadi. He spoke to the waiter in Turkish and suddenly plates and plates of food began coming out. The kebaps come on skewers that are 2-3 feet long; you pick them up by the side that isn’t burning hot and then grab the meat in your hand with a pita tortilla. After you pull out the skewer you apply condiments as you see fit: onions, tomato, tsasiki (cucumber sauce), etc. We also drank raki (pronounced rock-uhh), which is a liquor that tastes like black licorice. After dinner we played a few games of backgammon (tavli) where Lee beat me three times. However he also gets the award for the slowest player ever to play the game. I swear he rolls the dice then counts out every possible move with his fingers before going. Even if it is a very straightforward play, count on waiting 5-10 minutes for princess Lee to finally move the damn piece.